Monday, March 03, 2008

Loewe F/W 2008-09

The classic old world charm interior of the 294-year old Parisian opera house, Opera Comique fits rightly with Loewe's upcoming fall/winter 2008-09 collection.

Although it's a slight different from previous presentations with models sashaying the pieces on the runways, this year, the tanned-colored mannequins with bold heads are taking over the role of their human counterparts instead, all dressed in new frocks and ensembles created by British designer Stuart Vevers (formerly of Mulberry), who has been appointed by Loewe as its new Creative Director, succeeding its former designer, Jose Enrique Oña Selfa.

At a glance, the atmosphere is slightly akin to an aristocratic party held by a French or European nobleman in the 17th or 18th century judging from its ageless Baroque interior decoration complete with gilded floral carving adorning the wallpapered walls, which falls perfectly with Vevers' inspiration for the two seasons - returning back in time to the days of Spanish aristocracy. Think of the time when Spanish galleons ruled the seven seas, bringing home gold and peculiar things from the New World and when Columbus founded the land called America.

For his initial collection for Loewe, Vevers, who was hired
by Pierre-Yves Roussel, the CEO of LVMH fashion division for being someone who can make desirable bags, came out with a modest collection of 19 ready-to-wear pieces that are not accorded to the current season trend and less limelight-grabbing, if you know what I mean.

Taking menswear as his references, Vevers used dull colors in his collection ranging from the overused gray, which is prevalent in every single fall/winter designer collections to grayish blue and lackluster maroon and teemed with quite a good combo of soft buttery hides, lace and silk faille to name a few.

The exhibition began with a belted lace gown with a lifeless-looking cap sleeves and golden bow details on the front , reminding me of that old-fashioned dress a western grandma used to wear.

Lending life to it is the purple thin belt with gold buckle and a tote bag in pink with a pair of round toe heels decorated with pink bow details. The dullness continues with full black lace skirt paired with slim gold-chocolate lame blouse and accessorized with oversized chunky golden necklace.

Though the entire collection may seem honestly boring and unappealing, a grayish draped nipped waist dress made from shiny fabrics, probably a combination of satin and silk or napa, with dots and perforation details plus satin underlining caught my attention.

From a short glance, the dress reminds me of Dior's classic New Look. Paired with a simple handbag in bubblegum blue and peeped toe heels, this key piece should make its way in any Loewe's die-hard aficionado closet come fall/winter.

Gray hip-hugging riding pants is effortlessly matched with double breasted printed jacket with front pockets in, again, gray, and a pair of riding boots, a truly an equestrienne look.

Since Loewe is famous for its high-quality leather merchandises, Vevers has incorporated soft and luxurious napa into some of the pieces such as assymetric bustier gown, zipfront dress with flapped front pockets and matching belt with logo-embossed hardware, and double-breasted self-belted trench coat with short hem.

And of course, the highlight of the collection will always be the accessories. For fall/winter, invest in Loewe's legendary bags crafted in plush crocodile skin as well as patent leather shin boots with jewel-encrusted embellishment on the vamp in petrol green to compliment your million dollar fall/winter runway look.

Loewe's fall/winter 2008-09 ready-to-wear and accessories collection will be available at Loewe boutiques by end of August to late September while the spring/summer 2008 collection is available now in stores.

*Photos by Daniele Oberrauch/

Loewe - Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur; Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, Jalan Ampang 50800 Kuala Lumpur; Ground Floor, Isetan The Gardens, Mid Valley City, Lingkaran Syed Putra, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur.

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